Cost-Plus Versus Value-Based Pricing: Do You Know the Difference?

This article was originally published on Apparelist.

Money left on the table doesn’t pay bills.

Every day, print shops across the country calculate their costs, add a markup, and hand over quotes that barely keep the lights on — all while their customers would happily pay more for work that solves their problems. The difference between surviving and thriving in the apparel business comes down to one critical decision: how you price your services.

At its core, pricing strategy determines the long-term trajectory of your business, not just your daily revenue. Let’s break down two fundamentally different approaches.

Cost-Plus Pricing: The Default

Cost-plus pricing follows a straightforward formula: Calculate your costs and add a predetermined markup percentage. For most decorators, this looks like:

• Material costs (garments, thread, ink, transfers)
• Labor costs (hourly wages × production time)
• Overhead allocation (rent, utilities, equipment depreciation)
• Plus markup (typically 30-50%)

This approach feels safe and logical. After all, you’re guaranteeing that every job covers its expenses and contributes something to your bottom line. A basic screen-printing job might look like this:

Shirts: $3.50 each × 100 = $350
Screen setup: $25 × 2 colors = $50
Ink costs: $15
Production labor: $20/hour × 2 hours = $40
Overhead allocation: $30
Total costs: $485
Markup: 40% = $194
Final price: $679 ($6.79 per shirt)

The problem? This method completely ignores what the customer actually values and what they’re willing to pay.

During my shop’s very early years, I drastically undervalued a brewery project. I meticulously selected ideal garments, developed the creative concept, and built a custom pre-order campaign system for their launch. Despite investing significant hours and expertise, I relied on my standard cost-plus formula out of habit. The project became a financial loss for me, yet proved successful for them. The following month, their merch revenue actually surpassed their beer sales for the first time in company history. This painful lesson demonstrated exactly how much value my services had created beyond just production.

Value-Based Pricing: The Profit Maximizer

Value-based pricing flips the equation. Instead of starting with your costs, you start with the customer’s perception of value. What problem are you solving? How important is this product to them? What alternatives do they have?

For example, when a local brewery needs shirts for an upcoming beer festival, they focus on making great beer and don’t necessarily understand they’re not just buying decorated shirts. They’re buying merchandise that will:

• Generate additional revenue streams beyond beer sales
• Enhance their brand at the event
• Potentially become collectibles for festival attendees

The same 100-shirt order that you might price at $679 with cost-plus could be worth $1,200-plus to this client because of the value these shirts represent to their business.

Transitioning from Cost-Plus to Value-Based Pricing

Making the switch requires a different mindset and approach to your client relationships:

1. Become a merch partner, not just a vendor

The key difference between shops that command premium prices and those constantly fighting for scraps is positioning. When you’re seen as just another printer, you’re a commodity. When you’re a growth partner who happens to offer printing services, you’re valuable.

• Ask different questions: Instead of, “How many shirts do you need?” ask, “What are your goals for this project?”
• Offer solutions, not just products: “Based on your event timeline and budget, here’s what I recommend …”
• Educate clients on options: “Here’s why a discharge print would better achieve the vintage look you’re going for, even though it costs a bit more.”

For embroidery shops, this might mean helping a corporate client understand why a 3D puff embroidery on a five-panel trucker hat creates a more impressive executive gift than flat embroidery on a basic dad cap, justifying a price point that’s 30-40% higher.

2. Know your numbers (but don’t be limited by them)

Ironically, to successfully implement value-based pricing, you actually need to understand your costs better than ever before:

• Track actual production times for different decoration methods
• Know your true overhead costs per square foot of production space
• Understand seasonal fluctuations in your business
• Calculate your capacity limits and opportunity costs

The difference is that these numbers become your minimum threshold, not your pricing ceiling.

DTG printers often struggle with pricing because the calculation is complex (pretreatment, machine time, ink costs vary by design). A cost-plus approach might price a complex, full-color DTG print at $15-$18. But when that print is for a client’s wedding party, the emotional value might justify $25-$30 per shirt.

When you track true costs and profit margins, unprofitable orders become immediately apparent. This clarity empowers you to make strategic decisions about which orders to pursue and which to politely decline, focusing your shop’s resources where they generate the most return.

3. Segment your clients and services

Not all clients and not all services are equal candidates for value-based pricing.
Best for Value-Based Pricing:

• Rush orders (obvious)
• Complex decoration techniques (simulated process printing, all-over sublimation)
• Custom design work
• Premium clients (corporate, events, established brands)
• Specialized markets (sports teams, universities, corporate gifting)

May Work Better with Cost-Plus:

• High-volume basic orders
• Repeat standardized work
• Price-sensitive markets (schools, fundraisers)
• Commodity products (basic one-color prints)

A smart hybrid approach is often best. For example, a shop might use cost-plus for standard orders but implement “value multipliers” for rush services, complex designs, or premium placement.

When implementing value-based pricing in your shop, making the transition requires both strategic and tactical changes.

Reassess your conversations:

• Include questions about the client’s goals, timeline pressure, and budget range
• Ask about the end-use of the products (retail, giveaway, team uniform)
• Inquire about past disappointments with other vendors

Test price increases strategically:

• Start with new clients who don’t have price expectations
• Raise prices on your most unique or specialized services first
• Increase prices for rush orders or complex jobs where value is most evident

Track results and refine:

• Monitor client reactions, win rates, and profit margins
• Note which types of clients are most receptive to value pricing
• Adjust your sales approach based on feedback

Many shop owners fear that raising prices will drive away customers. The reality? When I’ve worked with shops implementing value-based pricing, they may lose 10-15% of their customers, but increase their profit by 30-45%. The customers they lose are often the ones who demanded the most time and created the most headaches.

Making the Choice That’s Right for Your Business

The reality is that neither pricing model exists in isolation. The most successful shops I’ve worked with use the combination strategically:

• Cost-plus pricing as their absolute floor (never go below this)
• Value-based considerations to determine how much higher they can price
• Regular reviews of costs, offerings, and market value to adjust pricing

For a screen-printing shop offering water-based printing and specialty inks, for example, understanding that some clients value the premium feel of these prints allows charging 40-60% more than standard plastisol jobs.

A previous client shop of mine was buried in small, unprofitable orders from dozens of schools and teams. We created a “Premier Team Package” with higher minimums but included free design revisions and priority scheduling. Their order count dropped by 15%, but revenue increased 23% and production stress plummeted. Better still, the shop became known as the go-to printer for serious sports programs willing to pay for quality and reliability.

The Bottom Line: Price for Profit, Not Just Survival

In an industry where margins are constantly under pressure from online competitors and rising supply costs, your pricing strategy is a survival tool. Value-based pricing is all about aligning your prices with the true worth of your expertise, quality, reliability, and problem-solving abilities.

The shops that will thrive over the next decade won’t be those with the cheapest prices or even the latest technology. They’ll be the ones who understand their true value to customers and price accordingly. Whether you’re running a small print shop from your 600-sq.-ft. garage or managing a large-scale apparel empire, the question isn’t whether you can afford to adopt value-based pricing. It’s whether you can afford not to.

There’s a significant difference between calculating what your services cost and calculating what they’re actually worth.